Delfiore is far from Long Island's largest pork store, nor does it have the variety -- chicken teriyaki kebabs, wild-rice salad, coconut shrimp -- that catapults some Italian markets into global orbit.
What this modest, family-owned store has in abundance is attention to detail. Lorenzo Galeotafiore runs the store that was founded, in 1971, by his father, Carmine Galeotafiore, and two maternal uncles. Galeotafiore and the two D'elia brothers combined their names to form Del Fiore. The enterprise moved to this location in the mid '80s, around the time the D'elias moved on to other pork-related ventures.
Lorenzo, 32, is putatively in charge, but Carmine comes in every day as well. The third fixture is Peter Burdo who, said Lorenzo, "has worked here so long he's like family." These three men make the store's superb mozzarella. Most fresh mozzarella is made without salt; the just-formed balls are immersed in brine. But a few years ago Carmine started adding a little salt to the cheese itself, letting it rest in plain water. The result is a cheese that is slightly salty all the way through. Del Fiore's standard mozzarella is twice the size of the usual one-pound ball and, because it's a cylinder, it yields many more even slices. Details like that.
On the pork front, Del Fiore makes its own fat links and thin spirals in hot and sweet, with and without fennel seeds. Independent pork stores that make their own dried sausage (sopressata) are an increasing rarity, but Del Fiore excels here too. Little tubs of soprassata samples on the counter sell themselves.
Also on offer: fresh meat, olives, bread, pasta, imported tomatoes, cheese and Carmine's famous tripe stew. -- Erica Marcus (Newsday / Sept. 15, 2011)
Lorenzo Galeotafiore owns Del Fiore Italian Pork Store in Patchogue with his father, Carmine Galeotafiore, one of the store's founders. (Sept. 9, 2011)